The Pearly Gates

Before we exit our home state of Qld, through the Hell’s Gate “goat track”, we can’t resist the temptation to find out the local history of the outback towns we pass through, what made them famous and what continues to keep the tourists calling in to say “hi” or as they say it in the outback “g’day cobber”.

So starting with Croydon, this little town is steeped in a rich decadent history which stems back to the lucrative discovery of gold in 1886. Station hands, Walter and Dick Aldridge were digging fence posts on Croydon Downs cattle station when they struck it lucky. Not bad for a day’s bit of hard yakka! For the next 35 years the goldfields were teaming with miners and almost 24 tonnes of gold was extracted. Although, the mining has stopped today there are other precious icons which are bringing the crowds into town, that being the Gulflander Train or more fondly known as the “tin hare” and the Croydon Club Hotel which is still selling liquid gold and has been since 1887.

Krys vs Mic @ Normanton  … I can imagine the great Steve Irwin tackling this monster

Just like the Gulflander Train that travels from Croydon to Normanton, we decide to make tracks and stop over in Normanton for the evening. The must do in this town is to have your picture taken with Kyrs the crocodile. This reptile was shot in the wild by Krystina Pawlowski a Polish immigrant back in 1957. It was a staggering 8.63m long and she only needed one shot. She was the glamorous version of Steve Irwin wearing jungle green overalls, bright red lipstick and had immaculately painted nails. Believe it or not, the shooting of this incredible reptile wasn’t something Krystina was proud about and vowed after this shooting that she and her husband Ron would become conservationists, protecting the species forever more. Needless to say it would be terrifying to see a crocodile like this in the wild and although every creek/river bed we come to we are hoping to see a beast like this in the estuary, we really only want to spot it when there is safe distance between us both.

Our next stop Karumba is aptly named, given this town is where the outback does truly meet the sea. Situated on the Norman River, Karumba is well known as a recreational fishing mecca. And the perfect tribute to celebrate the success of restocking the estuaries with plenty of Barramundis is the Les Wilson Barramundi Discovery Centre and Hatchery. There’s alot to learn here about the breeding cycles of the species and interactive displays you can get in on the action by landing yourself one of the beauties. Well, it may not be the real thing but watching the sunset over the Gulf of Carpenteria and enjoying the local seafood at Ash’s will certainly make up for any short comings in Mic’s fishing ability. I’d even go as far as saying it may even be more enjoyable!!

Another sunset overlooking the Gulf

But as we continue with our travels we feel ourselves blessed to be able to share our stories with old friends and newly made ones. Even if the boys want to talk about trucks and tyres all night long.

Guess who’s not pulling their weight 🤨

Our final destination this week was Lawn Hill which is part of the Boodjamulla National Park. More swimming, bush walking, cold showers and kayaking. There’s plenty of lush vegetation and bird species in this park to be fascinated by and stopping here for three days was a real treat. Before we continue west to explore all that the NT has to offer and let’s hope it’s more than just the flies, bull dust and corrugated roads.

The Savannah Way

The next leg of our journey sees us veer west, for approximately 3700km that is 😁. This track is known as the Savannah Way, which is considered to be one of Australia’s top ten travel journey’s, and if what we’ve seen in the first 2 weeks is anything to go by, we are in for a real treat.

The trip starts with a visit to Innot Hot Springs. These baths are known for their therapeutic benefits, however, the signs indicate that this water scalds and warns bathers of the imminent dangers of being burnt. It’s winter in the out back, but every day the temperatures seem to soar above 30oC. It’s certainly an interesting phenomenon, but I’m happy to observe from a distance. No need to go for a dip today.

The amazing Undara Lava Tubes

Next, Undara Lava Tubes! Almost 190,000 years ago with temperatures soaring above 1500 degrees Celsius, molten lava was spilling out 160km in one direction and 90km in another. Mother nature was angry 😡! This gigantic eruption created the most significant tunnels underground, without there being any need for expensive tunnel boring equipment. 😮 And today they have been made safe enough for tourists to explore and google at in sheer amazement. As you can imagine by looking at the photos it’s like a forgotten city as there are very few inhabitants and without our torches it’s pitch black. The tunnels do, however, provide refuge for microbates, insects and a couple of frogs.

Look out for the green Bertie Beetles
Office hours kept at Georgetown, Mic’s found his next place of employment.

Back on the road after bunking down at the Bedrock Caravan Park, we’re making tracks and heading to George Town …. Yabba Dabba Do! This country town is part of the Etheridge Shire Council and although the population here is one of the smallest; this region rocks. They have a fantastic public pool, an unbelievable undercover sports area where we enjoyed a game of tennis and a shady park with well laid out facilities. It’s really good to see when a community bandies together to create an environment that’s a fun place to stay and offers a very warm welcome to travellers all expenses paid. We’ve also fallen in love with the working conditions of the local tax accountants and if you get to see their office, the sign outside seems to sum up their profession perfectly, as it states that it’s the villa of reduced circumstances.

Forsayth Turnout – better than the Ekka

In fact, the hospitality was extended to the Forsayth Turnout, which just happened to coincide with our visit. Cattle dogs entertaining crowds, rounding up the Brahmans, the boiling Billy competition, local arts, craft, cooking and fresh produce, greasy pig, best dressed dogs and lollies for the kids raining down on them from the roof top of the canteen building. Good old family fun day. What more could you want??? Well, I probably could have done with an Ekka strawberry sundae 😍 🍨

Don’t forget the exhilarating Yabbie race – winner Stoney Tony claiming $750

It also gets very serious when they start auctioning off the freshly caught yabbies for the all important yabbie race. It’s a bit like watching paint dry but it’s high stakes for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place. This year’s winner was Stoney Tony but my bet was on HotasHell. The race nearly ended in a protest as HotasHell was trumped by a pesky ice thrower. I’m sure it was an innocent mistake and added to the excitement, but the outcry from the crowd almost ended in fisty cuffs, especially given the high value of prize money on offer.

The next natural wonder you may ask 🤔, see’s us visit Cobbold Gorge. Only discovered in 1992, when Simon (the owner) and 2 school friends from boarding school turn up with a tinnie to go fishing. They really do manage to strike it lucky when they discover this hidden gem. It’s not long after that the Cobbold Gorge Tourist Resort was formed. The Gorge is a geological wonder created some 134 million years ago as sandstone sediments were compressed and a large scale fault occurred. Following numerous torrential rains over many wet seasons a ravine was carved out with water flowing to the lowest point. The result being a tranquil deep water gorge that can only be explored with an experienced guide.

Checkout our new hiking boots for scaling the glass bridge

Our stay at Cobbold was full of adventure as we pursued all of the ecotourism water activities on offer. There’s also a feast of bush walking tracks to explore as you navigate the working cattle property on foot. To cool off, the infinity pool is very inviting and a great way to unwind if you so choose to lay by the pool at the end of the day. Don’t be surprised though if you find yourself nodding off!!! ☺😴

SUP boarding … and all to ouselves.

It puts a Rose in every Cheek

Taking the time to immerse ourselves in the surrounds of the beautiful Atherton Tablelands has reignited our passion to buy local and to shop locally. It’s just too easy to pull over and buy a watermelon straight from the farmer’s paddock or to call into the Golden Drop Winery to sample the range of Mango wines on offer and to leave with wine, port and a refreshing Zingo fruit icy pole. It makes you feel good reinvesting in these communities which have been affected by Covid and knowing that we will get through this together. 🥰

Sampling Mareeba’s produce and wineries

It’s definitely the place to treat yourself, as beyond the wineries and fruit orchards, there’s the coffee, tea, boutique cheese and chocolate producers. Mic said I was going to love this place and without a doubt I don’t want to leave, it’s just superb. I guess the best way to remember it is to take home some mementos and some freshly ground Black Mountain Coffee will do just the trick.

Coffee Works – a variety of coffee, coffee liquor and chocolate!!
Mareeba Heritage Village

On a more serious note the history is just as rich as the soils are fertile. The local museum at the visitor information centre at Mareeba acknowledges the cultural heritage of the timber, tobacco and dairy industries. Some of the displays are so life like and beautifully restored that you gain first hand knowledge of what it must have been like to live regionally. With the railway making significant contributions to connect communities with essential services such as the “Bunny Cart” which was Mareeba’s access to medical services right up until 1983 (picture featured above showing Mareeba’s Ambulance via rail line).

Spotting Platypus in the Tablelands

Make sure you take some time out as well though, to enjoy the simple pleasures as around dusk, platypus will be surfacing to find some supper and to prepare their burrows for the evening. They’re fairly shy little creatures so be patient, watching for little air bubbles to rise to the surface and you maybe lucky enough to catch one on camera as we did but you’ve got to be quick!!

Fellow travellers at Curtain Fig, Lake Eacham at Yungaburra

For adventure seekers as well, water sports are popular at Lake Eacham, swimming and kayaking at the crater lake or just be amazed by nature’s beauty at the majestic curtain tree fig which is another hidden gem, that is easily accessed less than 100m from the road.

A great night out at the Majestic Theatre in Malanda

During our visit to Malanda, I thought a movie and pizza night would be the perfect way to end another glorious week. It was a spontaneous decision to seek out the movie theatre in Malanda but when the aroma from the caramel popcorn draws you in, and Charmaine Rayner the owner greets you with such an infectious smile, it’s hard to say you’re not interested. Especially, when this theatre is the oldest operating movie theatre in Australia. It’s good old family fun with canvas deck chairs being the original seating. Bring your pillows and doona if you so desire and settle in to enjoy the show you, won’t be disappointed.

Dairy Farmers Malanda milk anyone?

Finally, amongst all the myriad of activities to occupy your time on the Tablelands, one of the most popular choices is to visit the numerous waterfalls. They have Australia’s widest waterfall being Millstream Falls, the picturesque Milla Milla Falls and the Malanda Falls which finishes our journey through this spectacular Tablelands area, placing a rose on every cheek.

Chillagoe – well worth a visit

A quick detour outside Mareeba, resulted in a surprisingly interesting three day stay at the small town of Chillagoe. Chillagoe was best known for the mining exploits of copper, silver, lead and gold through the late 1800’s. The smelter, remnants seen in the photo below, employed upwards of 1000 mainly immigrant employees at its peek.

Remaining Chillagoe Smelter Stacks

Today, however, Chillagoe is best known for Mungana Caves and National Parks found just outside the small township. National Parks staff provide daily tours of the three main cave systems of the Donna, Trezkin and Royal Caves. We chose to investigate the Trezkin Cave which is by all accounts the most spectacular; housing the Chandelier stalactites formation. The tours are so popular at the moment you need to book ahead to get a spot. The caves are truly amazing and of all the ones we have visited throughout the world the Trezkin Cave has been my favourite so far.

Balancing Rock

Of the more precarious things Mic does in his spare time nowadays is tempting fate. This unusual photo opportunity takes me right out of my comfort zone. It would be more aptly renamed “Balancing Boulder” and have a warning sign to alert bush walkers of the inherent danger. But no, Mic believes this outcrop of limestone is worthy of a selfie.

This delightful swimming hole is a popular spot visited by the locals and tourists alike. It’s tucked in amongst the shady Paperback Trees and provides the perfect setting for chilling down and relaxing after a full day out exploring the magnificent limestone caves.

Also, if you’ve ever listened to the ABC radio you may have been fortunate enough to learn that Tom Prior has an amazing collection of Ford vehicles and trucks. With so many stories to tell about his truly rare collection, make sure you have plenty of time to listen to them all. As you will leave knowing that chasing a dream can be a life long passion and in Tom’s case one day you’ll catch the one you’ve waited for the longest. Tom has recently purchased a Ford Eifel historic wedding car. He had wanted this car since 1971 and he’s lovingly restored it using baby oil and kerosene for the chrome finishes. There’s alot to take in here but the one piece of memorabilia that I had the biggest chuckle about was the sticker that read “I’d rather push my Ford than drive a Holden” and knowing the rivalry that exists between the fanatics of Ford versus Holden I’d say this rings true to many a fan.

Finally, the majestic slate grey bluffs are predominant throughout the Chillagoe landscape. They give life to many tree species, a range of bats, a few spiders and some spotted pythons. It’s a great playground to explore, and get lost in the moment given its unique geological environment.

What goes up must come down!

It goes without saying that the climb to the northern most point of Australia was an epic adventure and now having reached the top we must make our way back down. ☹

But it’s fair to say that in our travels we’ve made some mental notes of places to visit on our way back that are just as stunning and as rugged as the places we’ve been too! After all, Mic needs to be challenged, to keep him interested right.

Punsand Bay known as the “Tips” top beach stop

Punsand Bay is definitely the most civilised spot on the Cape. I think they must rake the sand every day as it is devoid of any life. People rave about this spot because there’s a bar, restaurant, swimming pool and range of accommodation options. It’s got more of a resort feel to it but if you think you might be able to pull up stumps here, forget it, as you need to book years in advance. Obviously, this is an exaggeration but the word amongst campers is forget it if you haven’t booked.

Anyone up for an 800km ride, a very sore bottom and a mouth full of bull dust! Top Bike Tours, a truly unique holidaying experience🤭

But aside from the glamping dilemma at Punsand spare, a thought for the travellers who enjoy physical punishment as a preferred holiday option. We took this photo for our friends who love to cycle. It is possible, if you’re brave enough to have a cycling holiday exploring the Cape. I’m just jealous that my will power isn’t strong enough to endure such a tough ride. Well done, to those who choose this option as it would certainly live up to a unique holiday experience. Either that or crazy 🤪🤣.

Beautiful Fruit Bat Falls

Swimming in crocodile free waters is also a rare treat. This large expanse of water forms part of the Jardine National Park. The water is crystal clear at Fruit Bat Falls and before seeking the water, make sure you enjoy the serenity of the spa pools. We were able to maximise our time here floating with our noodles in our own private pools.

Other favourite stops along the way are Bramwell Station, Chuulangun and Chilli beach. Cattle mustering, cold showers and chilling sums up our final days exploring the Cape. I did, however, avert a running of the bulls crisis at Bramwell Station due to the stock yard gate being left open and my quick thinking to shut it for the musterers. Phew!

Bramwell station sleepover and cattle muster. Ready for Aldi cryovac!

Our final stop was Hann station which should be renamed to “Animal Farm”. The new owners for this lovely spot should be congratulated as they provide shelter and food to rescued animals. Our trusted house sitter profile can now be updated to include Aussie the Emu, Hercules the Pig, Wallabies and Peacocks.

End of the Cape journey

Somerset Aboriginal Cave Art

Somerset Bay Bush Camping

On our way back from the tip, feeling a little bit more adventurous we decided to explore a side track that promised to take us past some bush camping options on offer. And what a surprise find we made!!! A secluded bay known as Somerset where we could camp right on the beach, fish, rock climb and swim. Maybe not the swimming I’m used to…but more just like paddling my feet, it’s safer that way right. 😉 

We are going on a treasure hunt – we are hoping to find the Aboriginal Cave Art

However, like any great adventure I’m on the hunt to find more. Before Mic could say “Robinson Crusoe”, I was off to find the treasure. Clambering over rocks, through mangroves seeking out the Aboriginal Cave art we had heard so much about. It took me just over half an hour to find this sacred spot but it was so worth it. If you know me I’m passionate about art and the simplicity of indigenous work always inspires me.

Sea turtles and many fish species love this bay too, the Aboriginal Cave Art captures this so well. Definitely worth the effort.
Another happy snap from the very happy adventurers
Simply gorgeous hidden cave – no wonder this was a favourite spot for the Aborigines too.

We free camped here for three days and both agree this is our favourite spot so far. ♥️

Pajinka Bound

Are we there yet? Where you might ask is Pajinka? It’s the indigenous word for the “Tip”. I think Mic secretly might have wanted to leave me at the Croc Tent with all the other kids young and old who are sourcing their last minute mementos to mark the special occasion. Reaching the northern most part of Australia is definitely not for the faint hearted and maybe a little annoying for the driver if you have a passenger like me asking every minute how much further is it??

Mic getting his hands dirty 💩 before we head off to the Tip

Yes, without a doubt the drive is challenging!! However, when you do reach the top it’s remarkable. You feel a real sense of achievement and you realise that you can now tick another item off your bucket list. We waited until late afternoon to make the journey over the stoney path as it gave us the perfect opportunity to take it all in, without feeling rushed and got a heap of happy snaps to mark the occasion.

Carpark at the “Tip” – late afternoon
Outlook from top of the “Tip”
Feeling good we made it to the northern most part of the Australian Continent – yay!
Be brave and make the round trip along the beach front past the mangroves

And of course there’s no better way to celebrate, opening a bottle of bubbly which made it all the way to the “Tip” without being broken…hip, hip hooray!

What day of the week is it?

Jardine River Crossing

After some refreshing waterfall swims we decide to travel further north and make the famous Jardine River crossing. These days it’s a $100 return trip, which includes free camping at many remote bush and beach camps. But make sure you hold onto your ticket or you may have to pay twice. 🤑 However, before reaching some of the more remote spots, we decide to take stock at the popular Ulua and Seisia Camps.

Ulua Beach – “It’s a magical place”

And no trip to the “Tip” would be complete without visiting one of the many islands up this way. Any guess which island took our fancy? There are a few up this way with names of the week. Well, it happened to be Thursday or more commonly known as TI to the locals.

There’s not much to do on the island but we still managed to fill in the day enjoying breakfast at a popular cafe where the crayfish pie is their speciality, taking a bus trip to Green Hill Fort  (a relic that’s stood the test of time from WW2), learnt about the pearl divers who tragically lost their lives diving for the Mother of Pearl shells to make buttons (that’s before the plastic ones gained popularity) and why TI was chosen as the main administration hub because of its sheltered port.

They have an interesting cultural centre that’s celebrating 150 years of the coming of the light, and this is a reflection of the impact missionaries had on the Torres Strait Islander people. We found them to be friendly, laid back and welcoming.

It’s definitely a must do and the ferry trip over leaving at 8am and departing at 2:30pm will give you plenty of time to get back for a hot shower, tea and a early night.

Cultural Centre, Grand Hotel and Catching the Ferry to TI
The People You Run Into

But to add to the experience was getting to say a very quick “hello” to Sue and Warren. It’s unbelievable to think our paths would cross even if it was for just a few minutes from the back of arriving and departing ferries. In just a short time we were able to concur it’s definitely a place we would come back to as it’s just beautiful up here.

Lookout onto Five Bays
Some of the sights TI has to offer

In more ways than one, it’s easy to lose track of which day of the week it is, especially when you’re on Islander time!

So is the fishing really that good in the “Cape”?

Well I’m no expert, however, let me say that the fishing must be awesome when Mic can catch one 🤣. He ended up catching 3 Sootie Grunters (but only 1 was an edible size) and they were biting like winter Whiting on the Toogoom flats, with every cast out attracting a new candidate. Thanks Sandra for the green prawn recommendation! Even I got in on the action, especially when it came time to cook it. In fact, the fresh fillets were very good to eat, with extremely white flesh and no muddy taste at all.

Someone is very happy!!
Barra Hole at Moreton Telegraph Station … the secrets out!
Iconic Moreton Telegraph Station

Apart from a great fishing spot this delightful camp ground provides the perfect place to stop after a hard day’s drive. Even more pleasing to see is the green grass and no more red dust flying eveywhere. It gives my lungs a chance to recuperate!! If the kids were here they’d say my coffee cough has returned and that another cuppa wouldn’t go a stray 😊. We are only 293 kms away from Cape York but who’s counting.

More dirt roads and the Old Telegraph Road into Elliot & Twin Falls

Hats off to my driver, who got me safely to a gorgeous swimming location. I couldn’t bare to look as Mic navigated the treacherous Old Telegraph Track.

Elliot Falls
& Twin Falls all to myself

And if reaching the falls wasn’t thrilling enough, having them all to ourselves was the ultimate reward. Don’t worry, it’s one of the few places you are able to swim without having to be fearful of crocodiles.

There’s No Other Place Like It

Mic shouts out “hang on” as we hit our first dirt corrugation, taking the track to Lakefield National Park, the second largest National Park in Queensland.

Overnite stop at Isabella Falls

I know for certain I’m not cut out for these roads, dust or heat!!! Thank goodness that our lack of planning has enabled us to take a rest stop whenever we feel like it. We are only travelling approx 150km per day and it’s taking anywhere between 3-5hrs to reach our final destination for the night. It’s definitely tough going and you need to concentrate 100%. But in saying that reaching our destination has been both rewarding and worthwhile. 

We are definitely making use of the bush camping opportunities and the one at Kalpowar Crossing is perfect. A cold shower and bush toilet with foot pump is the simplicity we crave for. I may also be seeking  ice-cream but will have to settle for iced water instead!!!  The park is home to numerous waterholes, old homesteads and an abundance of bird life. Oh, and I forgot to mention termite nests which adorn the Nifold plains. They are prolific. It’s an interesting landscape and you begin to think how long has it taken these industrious insects to construct something so unique and intriguing??

Spectacular Nifold Plains
There’s no other place like it alright!

But aside from all the flora and fauna, we find ourselves amongst the caravans, camper trailers and numerous 4WD vehicles with pop tops also exploring what Qld has to offer. And as a reminder to all those responsible pet owners who maybe taking the family pet on holidays too, or should I say irresponsible owners, be very careful not to let your dog “SHIT” on this lawn as I’m sure it won’t end well 😂 especially if the sign is anything to go by.

Weipa town & mine tour, a great day out.

Ever wondered what Weipa is famous for? Well, like many other Australians I was unaware that this town has the 2nd largest deposit of Bauxite anywhere in the world. Bauxite sells for around $45/tonne and has overheads of $9/tonne. Rio Tinto mined approx 110 million tonnes of Bauxite last year and will continue to do so for the next 100 years. So, not a bad return on investment when you consider the mining process has been in operations since the 1950’s.

Mining involves removing the topsoil by approx 200mm and the red bauxite layer which is found just below is the raw material that is used to manufacture aluminium. The process is more like quarrying, however, referred to as mining because of the quantities removed during the course of the year. Rio Tinto uses the large Bunji boats to transport the pisolites to Boyne Island in Gladstone every day. It’s a very well run operation and the tour was extremely informative. Well done to Hardis our tour guide.

Weipa tourist Park and sunset out towards the Gulf of Carpenteria

We have only 300km to go before reaching the tip and no I’m not referring to the dump 🤗. So, it’s good for the soul to take in another magnificent sunset as it disappears over the waters of the Gulf of Carpentaria before we endure more dust, bumps and thumps!!!