The Long BITUMEN Road Home

All good things must come to an end as we decide to head for home in time for Xmas. Though, this was never our original plan with return flights from Perth having to be refunded. As it happens, it is now easier to travel overseas then get back into WA, can you believe it 🤔.

Driver break & refreshing dip at Bitter Springs

However, there’s a few stops on this final leg we had to explore on the long BITUMEN way home. First stop is Bitter Springs and Mic enjoyed a refreshing dip. For me, I think it was a little late in the season with flow just down to a trickle, so l was happy to catch the shade from the sidelines.

Overnight stopover at Daly Waters pub

The iconic pub of Daly Waters was next and it certainly lived up to its reputation with many unique displays on show including antique vehicles, bikes, planes and the like, however, the real standout was the bar. Here, it is normal to leave a mark of your visit with many a visitor hanging out an old bra above the bar. I couldn’t bare to let mine go 🤭.

Mick Dundee’s Walkabout Creek
Final overnighters at Mt Isa & Longreach

The final stops were at Mt Isa, Crocodile Dundee’s Walkabout Creek Pub, and the pretty towns of Winton and Longreach which we had visited previously with our kids on our trip to Uluru.

Love Home!

So after approximately 15,000km, 4000km on some of Australia’s most corrugated dirt roads, we finally return home to our slice of paradise at Toogoom Beach. I may be a little biased, however, this still rates as one of my favourites. (It may have something to do with my comfy bed being so near). That said, it was an awesome experience exploring our backyard in the top end of Australia, stretching the entire Savannah Way, an area we had not visited before.

🎄So finally, Merry Xmas to all and we hope our next blogs shall commence in Amsterdam in April 2022 … stay tuned🤞.

East Kimberley’s

As we look forward to completing the extremely remote and fascinating wilderness loop of the East Kimberley, we reluctantly depart Broome and head for the recently re-opened Tunnel Creek.

One last swim and Coffee at Broome

Tunnel Creek had been closed due to a recent rock fall, but now open again, with the engineer’s report signing off that it’s safe to enter (at your own risk of course). For intrepid explorer’s like us, that’s great news. That is of course until we realise what the visit to the Tunnel will entail.

Dark & scary 👻

It’s incredibly dark, with visibility being very poor, there are deep freshwater crossings in icy cold water only suitable for capable swimmers, wildlife, poor head height and no guidance on the path except for 1 reflective sign. We’ve travelled approx 90km on another dirt road and now seriously debating whether we have the intestinal fortitude to proceed. I’m almost in disbelief that Tunnel Creek is a tourist attraction and have visions of us being trapped like the poor Thailand boys in the Tham Luang Cave and needing to be rescued if we take one step further. 😬

Almost blue, friendly freshies in Tunnel Creek

However, by the strike of good fortune we are aware that another couple are looking to tackle the same walk and have just entered the tunnel.  We’re frozen in time but muster up the courage to ask our newly found friends if they are going to attempt the walk. And without any hesitation they aptly remind us that’s what we’re here for right!! It’s definitely a safety in numbers decision and without any further deliberation we follow our brave leaders Andrew and Amanda, becoming a tag along team with the gusto to just get the job done.

Where to now?

Not sure what my logic was to follow like three blind mice into this tunnel but I guess once you’re committed there’s definitely no turning back. In fact I’m still reeling from the experience, that I did what I did, considering we encountered five freshies with four of those being a decent size and one which decided to enter the water on our return. It does feel surreal, however, that we should reap a great sense of achievement by completing this walk. It definitely hits a new record for me as something I’ve never done before and will probably never do again. Unless of course, there’s a few Gin and Tonics included.

Wolfe Creek & a flat!

Our next stop on our itinerary was Wolfe Creek.  It’s an astronomical phenomenon. A meteorite crater measuring 880m in diameter. It’s the second largest meteorite crater in the world. Access to this site is via the infamous Tanami Road. It’s a long haul past the Ruby Downs Station, approx 130km on another rugged dirt road. Unfortunately, for us the lengthy trip was cut short by a raging bushfire closing the road into the National Park. But travelling this far not to catch a glimpse at the hole left behind by the meteorite collision with the earth was not an option. Our saviour was seeking permission to access Crater Station (part of the Ruby Downs Property) and to take to the skies with our drone. A glimpse was all we could manage, and to top off the experience, we recieved a flat tyre overnight.

Settling for coffee & cake (nice photo mic 🤨) … not the $98k Pink Argyle Diamond

The next leg of the trip has me very excited,  and no … it’s not the vanilla slice. I’ve wanted to visit the World Heritage listed Purnululu National Park or more commonly known as the Bungle Bungle Range for at least the last 10 years and the day has finally arrived. Staying overnight in the National Park we’re up at first light to enter the Echnida Chasm which is at the northern end. And wow, it is hard to comprehend the size of this chasm  however, it makes Petra’s grand entrance (the Siq) feel miniature. It is, a mass of conglomerate rock, which means over millions of years, smaller rounded rocks have been compressed into the sandstone. A bit like making a yummy Xmas cake with glace fruit and nuts, then mixing in the flour, eggs and brandy to bind it all together. However, as weathering takes place the sand erodes around the imbedded rocks exposing them, giving the gorge walls a very textured interesting face. It is exceptionally beautiful which is complimented by the green tree foliage of the cabbage palms, eucalypts and spinifex grass. The area also smells amazing, with the most gorgeous aromas being given off by the flora as it had just rained.

Beehive like structures of Purnululu National Park (or better known as the Bungle Bungle Range)

At the southern end of the park, be prepared to be amazed as the beehive shaped domes stand a majestic 300m above the spinifex covered plain. The alternating bands of orange and black are so striking. It is like nothing I have ever seen before with the walk ending at the Cathedral. A full scale concert was held in this naturally formed amphitheatre and we were lucky enough to have the space all to ourselves to enjoy the serenity and marvel at one of the most fascinating geological landmarks in the world.

Cathedral & Echidna Chasm

As we all know, all good things must come to an end and visiting the largest man-made lake in Australia is not a bad way to finish off our trip to Western Australia. That being … Lake Argyle.

Lake Argyle Dam Wall & the Power of Hydro Electricity

The Ord River was dammed in 1972 to supply irrigation water to various farming activities, but to this day they only use 30% of its capacity. The dam holds a staggering 10.7 billion cubic meters (21 times more water than Sydney Harbour) and can become quite treacherous when weather conditions change as the dam becomes like and inland sea. It had been recommended to us to take a cruise on Lake Argyle and stay at the local caravan park which we’re glad we did as the lake is truly a marine and wildlife paradise. They’ve also built a hydro electric scheme to provide power to the township, irrigators and the Lake Argyle Mine when it was in operation. This saves the community from having to purchase large amounts of diesel and provides a more environmentally friendly and sustainable way to generate power at a fraction of the cost.

Stunning afternoon on Lake Argyle

Such a stunning place to complete our Kimberley experience!!!!

Broome Time

After the recent gruelling weeks, navigating some of the remotest landscapes of the far north western parts of Australia, we’ve decided to head to Broome for a Real Holiday!!! 🏄‍♂️🥳 Broome has often been described as the gateway to further adventures in the Kimberley, but this time, Mic and I are searching for something a little more relaxing.

The end of the Savanah Way … the iconic Broome Sunset

In fact, I’ve heard many travellers and the locals alike coin the phrase, “Broome Time”. So, is it weird to hope that the legacy of what this may entail can simply engulf us in its time warp and allow us to experience the charm and unique character this sleepy beachside town has to offer.

The Broome camel experience

And if there was ever a reason to stay put for over 3 weeks, to recover from the physical and mental stress on both the body and mind, I’m sure you’d agree an afternoon sunset is the allure that can do it. We have decided that Cable Beach will be just the spot to regain some normality. Daily swimming, strolls along the beach, spectacular sunsets, good food, entertainment, great company is good for the soul and the ideal place to base ourselves. Why would anyone want to leave?

Neighbours and out for dinner at the SLSC with Dean, Caroline and their two gorgeous girls

Well, as you can see we don’t want to leave. We’ve settled in quite nicely and doing what all good tourists should, supporting the local economy.

Lots to do in Broome & catching up with Andrew, Cath & Nic again, for linner 😁

Although, the budget doesn’t quite extend as far as I would like to the magnificent South Sea Pearl of Paspaley Jewellers. I was, however, more than happy to read the fascinating life story of Nick Paspaley senior, who as a 19 year old entrepreneur saw the beauty in the pearl, not only for making buttons but when the industry was decimated in the 1950’s, became interested in the Mikimoto technique for cultivating pearls. Through innovation he refined the Japanese process to suit the unique conditions of the Kimberley waters. It took years of devotion and patience to unravel the intricacies of Pinctada maxima pearl oyster but the rewards today have earnt his family international acclaim for the quality and superiority of the pearls they produce. To this day, the family has been in the business for a 100 years. Something to be very proud of indeed.

Worth the effort 🤨 … ???

It’s even a great place to retrace the footprints of the prehistoric creatures of the past at Gantheaume point. Clambering over the spectacular red cliffs we head down to the low tide mark. And with a keen eye we think we’ve found the bird like indentations from the dinosaurs.

Fun filled day at the Horizontal Falls & Cape Leveque

Further exploration at very low tides at Town Beach we venture out amongst the mudflats to see the eerie remains of the Catalina’s (Dutch Flying Boats that were strafed during WWll). It was a difficult trudge through very sticky mud with Mic ending up with a very sore foot. He managed to get many splinters of coral like material in the sole of his foot which turned out to be more like glass, extremely difficult to see and even more so to retrieve. Ouch!! 🤕😁

Horizontal Falls – spectacular from the air too

We’ve also let our hair down and splurged on one of the greatest natural wonders of the world as acclaimed by David Attenborough. A full day trip to the Horizontal Falls. It’s awesome sea planes, 1200hp speed boat and a fast flowing tide that’s a force of mother nature unique to the Talbot Bay area. It was an unforgettable day out, an experience of a lifetime. Definitely, glad we secured the final two spots for the season.

Final drinks at Matso’s and the Broome Stairway to the Moon

In our final days we have to squeeze a few more favourites into our get away. Watching the tide charts to coincide our stay with the Staircase to the Moon seems perfect along with some good food and drinks at Matso’s .

Cable Beach our favourite spot … Zanders coffee shop is also just out of view too 🤣

We have loved Broome as a holiday destination for a very enjoyable stay. It would be great to bring the family back here one day as Broome is a charming place to stay with plenty of options on offer, to do as much or as little you want to do, at a pace that’s right for you.

Coo-ee!

We’re as the crow flies, 270km North-West of Wyndham in an extremely remote part of the Kimberley’s. We have been driving all day and only stopped momentarily to get some more fuel and a Uunguu visitor pass from the Drysdale River Station. The pass will give us permission to access the restricted area of the Mitchell River National Park. We’ve heard from many experienced travellers who we’ve met along the way that the Mitchell Falls and Plateau provide one of the most gruelling 4WD adventures, but is definitely worth the effort as the scenery is superb. It’s a highly sought after attraction when exploring the Kimberley. But that, you have to see it to believe for yourselves!

Kimberley’s Mitchell Plateau

And true to form, the road in was narrow, very rough, corrugated, windy with some steep inclines and large trees on either side. More like a death trap as it’s rarely maintained. The walking track to the falls also was a full day’s effort to clamber over rough country with many rocky cliffs and sheer drops. It was a challenge of epic proportions but I’m sure you’ll agree it’s magnificent. We’re only disappointed that our visit was nearing the end of the dry season and that only a small trickle of water was flowing over the falls.

Mitchell Falls with just a trickle remaining

We had been camped up in the national park for 3 days when we were alerted by park rangers that an adjacent fire was out of control and that we may need to evacuate. They had closed the walking track to Mitchell Falls and that we must stay at base camp until advised it would be safe to leave. We couldn’t believe our good fortune in that our timing was impeccable, had we been a day later or so our efforts would have been in vain and the allusive falls would have remained a mystery. Leaving though, again would prove difficult, as visibility from the smoke hazard would be an additional risk to contend with.

Manning Gorge and Mic lending Greg a hand at the station

After a quick surveillance of the area by helicopter, the rangers were satisfied our access road was clear and that it would be safe enough to travel as the fire had subsided due to less wind. We were keen to make tracks as well as our supplies of food and water were getting low and with no internet services for at least 14 days, we were feeling a little isolated not being able to make contact with family or friends. Making our next stop at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse, a great opportunity to pick up some fresh fruit and veggies, home made sausage rolls, fuel and a camping spot for the night which included the entrance to Manning Gorge for a well deserved swim.

Bush dinner with on the road friends Andrew, Kath and Nick

But like all remote holiday experiences the best ones are enjoyed with the people you meet along the way. Sharing a beautiful dinner with Andrew, Kath and Nick under the stars was a special treat and is definitely a highlight with an amazing fish curry, freshly baked chocolate cake, topped off with a glass of red for the adults. What could be more perfect and who would have thought possible given our location!

Bell’s Gorge still flowing strong

As we inch closer to wrapping up our Gibb River Road adventure, which has taken in many of the region’s natural wonders, over 20 long days and 19 awesome nights; our final stops include Bell’s Gorge and Windjana Gorge.

Stunning Windjana Gorge

Access to Bell’s Gorge is via another 29km of dirt road and a walking trail for experienced bush walkers taking at least half a day to explore. But making it to Bell’s Gorge is definitely worth it as the site is picturesque and swimming very refreshing.

Windjana Gorge almost completes the journey and unlike the other areas we have explored along this track, it is most unusual. As the story goes, some 375 million years ago, this area was part of the Devonian Reef System. The walls of the gorge are over 100m high and carved out by the Lennard River over millions of years. Deep pools of freshwater remain and are teeming with fresh water crocodiles. We counted almost 90 freshies and there were probably many more that went unnoticed. There’s also an abundance of noisy Corellas, Fruit Bats and Marsh Flies of annoying proportions.

Final GRR stop at Derby’s Prison Boab

Our final destination is a landmark, 7km outside of Derby, a 1500 year old Boab Prison Tree. I’m elated that we’ve finished the Gibb River Road and that we can tick this one off the bucket list forever. It’s been an outback adventure that has tested our resilience to the maximum. As a way to shout out we made it I’m calling Coo-eee from my soap box and heading to Broome for a REAL HOLIDAY!!!!! 🤣

Kimberley Kruisin

Preparing for our next adventure, which entailed entering the state of Western Australia, we needed to consider all the rules and regulations that would allow us to transition into this locked state, smoothly.

Undoubtedly, the process has become more complex as a result of Covid, but none the less equipped with a G2G border pass, vaccination records, a history of using QR codes for at least a month in the NT and nominating a place to stay should there be an outbreak, we almost succeeded in being given the green light to proceed. That was until biosecurity wanted to search the van for prohibited goods. We had eaten most things in the fridge and pantry so off loading a lettuce and cucumber was insignificant in the scheme of things. What a relief! We’d made it past check point Charlie and the scrutiny of Kununurra officers. Who would have thought travelling in your own country could be so arduous??

Now you may have noticed from the photos above I’ve passed my learner’s and now ready to share the driving duties with Mic. Well, the straight bitumen roads to start with and as my confidence grows maybe tackle the more challenging settings around town. I think I’ve said this before but getting behind the wheel of a truck takes courage and skill. It’s a huge responsibility to drive safely and concentrate for extended periods of time navigating the good, bad or ugly road conditions. I know Mic’s relieved he’s got a back up driver in an emergency, as am I to be there for him. 😱

Croc & Barra Pies at Wyndham

Motoring along the highway, our first port of call was Kununurra to top up on groceries, refuel and refill the water tanks. As the next phase of our journey will see us embark on one of the most unique 4WD tracks of our lives, the Gibb River Road. It’s a mammoth road trip of the ancient gorge country exploring all that the Kimberley wilderness has to offer. But first we’ve heard that the sleepy little town of Wyndham is worthy of a visit. There’s a bakery selling specialty pies (Barramundi or Crocodile), a beautifully shaded and cared for caravan park with the largest Boab Tree in captivity and a lookout showcasing the Five rivers. A superb stop over, to do a little planning and prepare the motorhome for the gruelling 1000km ahead. 

Emma Gorge but watch out for the freshie under the ledge

But before we get to the corrugated dirt roads, a quick dip in the invigorating waterhole of Emma Gorge sees me a little too close for comfort to the freshwater crocodile. It may just explain why I seem to be the only unsuspecting swimmer in the water oblivious to the fact that I’m only metres away from the freshi. OMG!!!

So, what is it about the Gibb River Road that has captured our imaginations? Well, for us it’s the sheer remoteness of the landscape with its untouched beauty and intriguing cattle stations that are the size of small countries that has us keen to explore this area. We’ve given ourselves approximately 20 days to stop at key points of interest, to enjoy the walks, take in the views, swim and recharge the batteries before heading off to our next campsite. Access to food, fuel, water and internet service along this road is very limited so it’s wise to take all the necessary precautions, advising family of your proposed itinerary and carrying any extra supplies you may need.

Stunning Pentecost River

And as the photos suggest, our first stop was El Questro Station. There are many walking trails and attractions at this facility, but like most, are dependent on the time of year and recent weather conditions. Our favourite picks were El Questro Gorge, Zebedee Springs and Pigeon Hole Lookout. Mic might have a different view of Zebedee thermal springs, however, as the leeches thought his blood was worth bottling!!

Infamous Gibb River Road / Pentecost River crossing with just a trickle over the road

Our next two stops were Home Valley Station and Ellenbrae Station. Both are beautiful and tranquil stops with lush green lawns, a place to take a dip and have a light refreshment. For me though, the hospitality at Ellenbrae was delightful. Fancy being able to indulge in a freshly baked scone with jam and cream in the outback Kimberley’s in the middle of nowhere! It’s a real success story as they bake over 17,000 scones per year. If this is what it takes to keep the owner’s being sustainable on their property, for generations to come, I’d highly recommend taking a break from the road to enjoy this perfect oasis with their family.

Fresh scones anyone?

Cicada Dreaming

It’s hot, hot, hot so best to get cool, cool, cool. These  amazing thermal pools are known as Katherine Hot Springs and I’ve fallen head over heals in love with the bubbles. With water so crystal clear and sheltered amongst the Pandanus back drop, I’m claiming my natural spa treatment as the ultimate beauty rejuvenation package for 2021. And if you think this location couldn’t be more perfect, I have to confess access to these pools is via the Pocket Rocket Cafe with seating to the oasis under a gigantic fig tree. I’m in heaven!!

But wait there’s more. Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) is calling. We’ve splurged and booked the Katherine Gorge sunset romantic dinner cruise with all the trimmings. It’s a rare treat for me tonight as someone else is doing the cooking and wash up. And I’ve heard there’s more bubbles to be enjoyed. It’s been a while since I’ve felt this good and wearing make up even seems a little unusual.

Yum … What a great night out on the Gorge

This evening got a 10 out of 10 for me. The food was delicious, scenery superb and there were plenty of laughs as the conversation flowed freely being seated with two other amazing couples with similar interests.

Spectacular Sceneray

The traditional landowners who share this amazing national park with tourists like us are the Jawon people.  As we cruised along the gorge going from gorge 1 to 2 we were amazed by the height of the sandstone cliffs and structure of the geological formations looking like blocks of chocolate. There’s a deliberate attempt by the owners to share the ancient stories of the rainbow serpent who created an extraordinarily deep whirlpool in gorge 2 which is estimated to be up to 37m in depth. The Jawon people believe these gorges are sacred and will never enter or fish from the waters for fear that they will aggravate the serpent bringing bad luck to their peoples.

Dinner with Parish and Cat at Katherine Resort

Then, after almost thirty years we couldn’t believe our eyes when we were reunited with one of Mic’s school friends Parish and his gorgeous wife Cat as we were lounging pool side. With so much news to catch up on, we filled our bellies with more great food and nearly kept our camping neighbours awake before we realised how late it was and decided to turn in for the night.

Like any good adventure, an easy way to take in the magnificence of the gorge is to view it from above. A steep incline flanked by steps leads you to an impressive lookout platform. Make sure you start out early and bring plenty of water as there is very little shade once you reach the top.

Gregory National Park

Saying goodbye to Nitmiluk the land of Cicada Dreaming, we find ourselves back on the road making our way to Western Australia. It’s a very scenic drive as we travel through the Gregory National Park. The park is divided into two with the Victoria River to the east and Gregory section to the west.

& the Gregory Boab Tree

Stopping at one of the pioneer’s camp sites which is roughly halfway between Katherine and Kununurra you are able to pay respect to the avid explorer Augustus Charles Gregory. His success in discovering this region is attributed to him establishing a base camp which allowed his men and their horses to rest and recuperate prior to continuing on with their gruelling explorations. On the day the base camp was evacuated the date was scribed on the Boab Tree to record such a significant milestone.

SSSSnake!!!! 😱😬

With all the nature and wildlife around, it stands to reason we would eventually strike a nasty critter sooner or later. But more about that story later, as we embark on our next journey into Kakadu National Park.

Kakadu is definitely Australia’s best known National Park, made famous by our Paul Hogan in the Crocodule Dundee Movie. After experiencing all it has to offer, I can truly say it has the most diverse assortment of magical escarpments, billabongs, wetlands, wildlife, indigenous art, flora, waterfalls and sunsets. Access to the park is via permit only and you have 7 days to absorb all the culture and beauty this park has to offer.

The classic Kakadu vista at Ubirr

And if you are seeking tranquility make sure you enjoy the sunset at Ubirr. It’s a great location to connect the aboriginal culture with country. With the wetlands seeming to come alive just before sunset. You’ll have the perfect position to watch water buffalo and the native birds bunker down for the evening. The park closes at 7pm so there’s no need to rush, just simply relax and enjoy the scenery as we did.

Indigenous art galleries at Ubirr, Nourlangie and Nanguluwurr featuring Lightning Man

Arguably the rock art in this precinct is spectacular. The 3 sites pay homage to some of the oldest and prolific aboriginal works in the country. They are extremely detailed and convey many messages that were communicated amongst the Bininji people. The variety and depth of subject covers not only information about the food they could hunt, but warns of evil spirits that would lure humans into caves never to be seen again and a sailing ship that’s a reminder of European exploration. It’s definitely a labour of love to preserve the artistic link to aboriginal culture and heritage given the harsh environment it’s exposed to day in day out, but thankfully, they take this seriously and have done an excellent job so far.

But if bird watching of the feathered species tickles your fancy, stopping at the Bubba & Yellow River wetlands is a must. The Jabiru is the native bird of the territory. It has long slender orange legs, large black bill for scooping fish and elongated neck that looks black from a distance but is really a striking emerald green colour if you get up close.

Now about that snake

So as I mentioned earlier, with all these nasties about, it was only a matter of time before we encountered our own Steve Irwin moment. Luckily for me, that didn’t end with a croc, but a large golden snake sunbathing on a boulder as we exited Jim Jim Falls. As usual, Mic was leading the way, saw nothing and most likely stepped over it leaving it for me to discover. It’s good to know that when the adrenalin kicks in I can overtake Mic and scoot on out of harms way.

The slithering golden brown tree snake

Now I know you are not supposed to make any sudden movements, however, my natural defenses included a mighty scream for HELP and then a bolt that the Flash would have been proud of. Mic responded with a sneaky snigger, after he checked that I wasn’t bitten … of course. He claimed it was more the look of sheer terror on the approaching tourists who promptly decided they didn’t need to travel any further. All I remember was that I was first back to the car park, with daylight a clear second.

With our visit to Arnhem land just about over we have two final swimming locations to visit before we make our way out of the park and head off to Katherine. And like many of the outback experiences in the top end the challenge of arriving at the destination can be the most rewarding. After travelling a further 60km via more rugged dirt roads and clambering over gigantic rocks to reach the escarpment we were delighted to arrive at the awe inspiring Jim Jim Falls. This secluded part of the national park is set amongst the red ochre rock faces and boasts sandy white beaches and crystal clear water. It is definitely worth the effort as the formation resembles a sky scraper. It has to be at least 120m from the top of the fall to the surface level of the water below. It is anybodies guess on how deep it is to the bottom. Definitely one of my favourites so far.

But if the effort of reaching Jim Jim seems a little off putting the simplicity of taking a dip at Maguk maybe the better choice. The walk is approx 2km return and follows the Barramundi creek through the shady monsoon forest. It ends with a stunning plunge pool and small intimate waterfall. It was a perfect way to finish our Kakadu experience; reflecting on the significance of the world heritage status acknowledging it’s dramatic landscapes, extraordinary wildlife and gateway to the world’s oldest continuing culture.

Wet’n Wild Litchfield

As we make our way from Darwin to one of Australia’s premier National Parks, that being Lichtfield National Park, we take a quick refreshishing dip at Berry Springs before making an overnight stay at the Darwin River Tavern. To our surprise during happy hour, we had an unexpected visit from the neighbours. We later learnt they were rodeo bulls and not to get too close. This was after Mic took a couple of close ups wearing his bright orange top … now that would have been quite a site 🐮. I always said I wanted to visit Spain to witness the running of the bulls, not sure I’m ready for Mic to get in on the action just yet. 😂😂

Check out the size of the neighbours
Entrance to Litchfield National Park

With balmy temperatures reaching up to 37 degrees it was the perfect time to go waterfall hopping. Cascading waters into transparent sandy rock pools, plunge pools and majestic single and twin falls are just some of the amazing natural features that were available to us to take a refreshing swim. Unbelievably we often had these top spots to ourselves. Access to most sites involved only a moderate walk from a bitumen carpark or local camp spot of up to 4km return. It’s a good idea to pack a second pair of togs (a good excuse for a new pair in my case 🤭) and a noodle or two as you can linger a little longer or enjoy basking in the sun on one of the many rock lounges. It’s awesome!

Majestic Wangi Falls
And from the skies

Other hidden gems within the park includes Tolmer & Tjaetaba Falls, the ruins of Blyth Homestead and the Cathedral and Magnetic Termite mounds.

Rooftop infinity pool at Tjaetaba Falls

But first the Tolmer Falls. Approx 400m from the carpark you can take in the beauty of these falls from the lookout. A natural arch is the feature of this dramatic fall. Many years of eroding the sandstone below the resistant rock above has left a beautiful arch with which water continues to flow today. There is no access to the gorge below as it’s the protected home to two rare species of bats the Orange Horseshoe Bat and Ghost Bat.

Tolmer Falls and termites at Blyth Homestead

The only remains of the Blyth Homestead built in 1923 is the timber hut and some stock yard fence posts. It was once the home of the Sergeant family who lived there with their 13 children. There are memoirs recorded at the property. The stories explain the trials and tribulations of life on a remote pastoral property from the perspective of the children and then when they were adults. The property was abandoned in the 1960’s after tragedy hit. But not wanting to say too much you’ll have to take a visit to discover the truth.

Magnetic termites also play another significant part in enriching the alluvial flood plains of the park. And with a little imagination you’d almost be forgiven if you thought the landscape resembled the local cemetery.  However, these incredible structures are more interesting than first assumed as not only are they aligned facing north to south they have also been built for thermal comfort by allowing the least amount of surface area being exposed to the heat of the sun. Very clever termites.

Secluded Tjaynera Falls at Sandy Creek
Mic enjoying a back rub at Bluey’s Rock hole.

There’s also something very therapeutic about the falls. As a bonus, a constant flow of cold water can provide the best massage ever. Mic’s definitely loving this remedy to heal all his aches and pains.

Florence Falls

On exiting the park we tried very hard to pick out our favourite spot but conclusively we couldn’t select a favourite because we loved it all. Each experience provided a connection that was quintessentially Australian and visiting this park you’ll be able to unearth why the NT is truly different in every sense.

Zebra Rock

Capping off the experience don’t miss the Zebra Rock museum. It’s only just opened so is definitely in its infancy but getting to see a 1.8 billion year old rock taken from a mining lease in Kununurra it’s a scientific phenomenon.

Let’s Blow Sh#t Up 🤯

So, we have arrived in Darwin and you know it’s NT day when a stray firework explodes seemingly a little too close for comfort. However, that’s what makes their special day such an exciting event and of course, unique to the territorians. And when in Rome, you have to buy a few crackers for your own explosive fun 🥳, however, we didn’t go as far as purchasing the special box, aptly named “Lets Blow Sh#t Up”. Although, we wanted too.

Firecracker Queen

Now, when the territorians decide to put on a fireworks show they certainly know how to impress. It made bunkering down on the very scenic Mindil beach an easy decision to make. With a perfect sunset, great music from Eskimo Joe and Timmy Trumpet and the RAAF Hornet undertaking a 10minute aerobatic display. It was an awesome way to celebrate such a special day and made even more memorable as it coincided with Mic’s birthday. 🥳

Sampling just a few treats at Mindil & Parap Markets

Taking further time out we love a market where we can mingle with the locals, maybe try some delicacies and soak up some more of the entertainment, even if that involves just sitting back doing some people watching. If you are anything like us we seem to enjoy a three course feast because we skip breakfast and go straight for brunch. Acai berry bowl, Mary’s famous Laksa and Mic’s favourite, ice-ceam. Yummo! It’s always nice to support the local craft traders too and another pair of earrings won’t go astray.

Darwin Museum & Cyclone Tracy Display

As we continue to mosey on around Darwin we’re loving the change of scenery and the ease with which we can get around to some of the tourist hot spots. A morning at Aquascene feeding the fish in the sanctuary, Crocosaurus Cove with the lively salty called Stevie, the waterfront with wave pool and more ice-ceam at Johnny Jon’s. It’s the first time we’ve had a holiday in Darwin and there’s a lot to like here. We’re also feeling civilised with bitumen roads to boot, restaurants and my fave of course, the freshly brewed coffee shop.

Handling a few residents of Darwin’s Croc Cove
Celebrating Mic’s Birthday with another Ice-cream

A big shout out for our wonderful hosts who made our stay very memorable goes to Carol and Harry. They’ve got a top spot to park your motorhome/caravan located right in the heart of Darwin. Just a gorgeous couple who can accommodate your every need and make you feel very welcome.

Farewell to Darwin and our hosts Carol and Harry

Borderline

With all the lock downs and entry permit requirements, we’ve managed to make it across the border unscathed. Well, almost as we’ve had a few close calls with the local wildlife. In particular, a local brumby, but rather than a black beauty it was a brunette bandit. Thankfully, it picked up pace when it realised our paths were set for a direct collision. I’m still not sure who got the biggest fright, but know for certain I’ve never felt so violently ill and the expletives that came out of my mouth, I promise to never repeat again as they weren’t terribly pretty either!!

Caranbirini Conservation Park

Putting the ordeal aside we are safe and that’s all that matters. So, to rekindle our spirits we head off to the Caranbirini conservation area. This spot has a semi-permanent waterhole with stunning water lilles and a large number of 25 metre spires that look like the tubes from a pipe organ.  It made for a perfect distraction. That’s only if the flies would have left me alone of course. To get to the reserve we travelled along the Carpenteria Highway for approx 46km in a southerly direction from Borroloola.  Geologists suggest that this site was once an inland ocean and the remnants of shell like material encrusted into the walls of the sandstone spires does support this theory.

Relentless red road corrugations on the NT Savannah Way

Travelling along you’d think by now we would have become immune to the corrugations and bull dust. And to the untrained eye this stretch of road would appear to be harmless. However, it’s incredibly rough and even though Mic tries his hardest to find the most comfortable route it’s a constant battle to navigate the shadows, dips and oncoming vehicles/road trains. We often think how lucky we are to be in the 4WD truck with the super single tyres but love it when we strike a recently graded section.

Lorella Springs

Our next stop and final destination for the evening is Lorella Springs. This spot is a 4,000 square kilometre outback cattle station surrounded by the Limmen National Park. The water in the thermal spring is like taking a luke warm bath. A number of small fish seem to be thriving in these waters. They also, take a fancy to any open wounds so taking a dip here is equivalent to a hydrotherapy session at the aquatic centre with piranhas. If you have a swim, be prepared to get nipped ….. ouch!

Mic cooking up a bush dinner

After all the physical activity we’ve undertaken during the course of the day we are feeling a little peckish. Given there’s some freshly cut hardwood stacked adjacent to the bush BBQ, my apprentice chief starts to get creative with his camp oven and cooks up a storm making damper to go with our bush stew. For dessert we indulge in devouring some freshly baked scones with oodles of butter and jam. The only thing that’s missing is our Billy tea.

The awesome Southern Lost City at Limmen National Park
And the Western Lost City too

After staying overnight in the Limmen National Park to recharge our batteries and feeling the need to work off the extra kilos from last night’s dinner, we are keen to explore the Southern and Western Lost Cities. This time to gain a true appreciation of the grandeur and scale of these famous landmarks we take to the skies. It’s truly a remarkable sight and I’m not sure Mic’s analogy of a tiger loaf does it justice 🤭.

Bathing at Butterfly Falls

To cool off I’m keen to soak in the tea tree coloured waters of the Butterfly Falls. Mic won’t come in so I decide to go it alone. It’s fairly late in the afternoon and I’m feeling a little isolated. There aren’t too many butterflies here this time of year to keep me company except for the common crow variety but no doubt with the change of seasons this place could be teaming with the colourful creatures.

Mataranka Falls & Hot Springs

Making our way towards Katherine we stay overnight in the Elsey National Park. Where we can enjoy another invigorating swim at the thermal Bitter Springs, as well as take the opportunity to walk along the Roper River.

An oh Shit moment (what tree) and Mic taking up some necessary panel beating

Finally, we are keen to be in Darwin for Mic’s B’day which, coincidentally aligns this year with NT day. We’ve been travelling at a pace that’s been a little hectic for my driver. Needless to say, although we are well equipped to handle most things backing into a sturdy gum is not our specialty. But with the gusto and inner strength of a panel beater, Mic hammers our box back into shape. Good as new!

Humpty Doo Dah

This final photo is for our son Ryan, who thought he would set us on a journey to find and take a photo with the famous boxing crocodile of Humpty Do. Well, here it is Ryano.